Caribbean | jaunt and flaunt

It’s time for the second installment of the series Globetrotting Friends. Well, my next globetrotter is a bit more than a friend, she’s my aunt! Sharon inspired me to live abroad from a young age, as she took off for the Caribbean, living on the small islands of Aruba and Tortola, to name a few, and never returned! No wonder, when the turquoise ocean and sea breeze are on your doorstep. And like any good friend abroad, it’s been great to visit her. Sharon currently lives in Tortola in the British Virgin Islands (BVI) and manages the beautiful artisan shop, Aragorn’s Studio, in Trellis Bay. She was kind enough to offer her recommendations for visiting this hidden gem of the Caribbean. Take it away Sharon!
If you are planning a trip to the Caribbean, definitely set aside a week or two or three for the BVI. The BVI is located just east of Puerto Rico and is surrounded by gorgeous blue water. The 50 islands of the BVI make up part of the Virgin Islands archipelago; the remaining islands constitute the US Virgin Islands and the Spanish Virgin Islands, also American, but they are governed by the US territory of Puerto Rico. All these islands share similar geographic features, but each country has developed distinct differences in terms of tourism, culture, and economy.

The BVI has a total population of just under 30,000 people, with the majority living on the main island of Tortola. Virgin Gorda, is the second most populated island, where about 5,000 people live, followed by few hundred people on Anegada, and another few hundred live on the island of Jost Van Dyke. A few islands are privately owned and house either a single residence, or have very exclusive hotels. Richard Branson’s Necker Island falls into this category! There are also dozens of completely uninhabited islands that provide incredible backdrops for afternoon beach picnics.
The BVI is known as the sailing vacation capital of the world. Consistently warm trade winds provide all the fuel that is needed for the 2-4 hour sails between islands. On a 7 day charter, it is easy to say you’ve visited at least a dozen different islands and you won’t feel rushed doing it. Costs of boat charters vary tremendously depending on the level of luxury and service you want; and, if you can captain a boat yourself, or whether you need to hire a captain. There are lots of different charter companies in Tortola that will be able to put together the right type of package for you. Use your internet search engine to get a list of charter yacht companies operating in the BVI. I believe all of them to be reputable, and it is just a matter of finding the right fit.

Although sailing around the islands is the most popular type of tourism here, a land-based vacation is also a great way to experience the BVI. There are no big hotels or chain restaurants in the BVI, but there are hundreds of vacation villas available to rent. VRBO provides some great options, as well as the BVI’s official website. If you are land based for a few weeks, take part of that time to enjoy some day trips to Virgin Gorda, Jost Van Dyke, and Anegada on a regular ferry services. And, to get to the uninhibited islands, head out on one of the day sail boats, such are Kuralu or White Squall II.
If you have very limited funds don’t dismiss a visit the BVI, as it still is possible to enjoy these islands on tight budget. Basic camping is available at Brewer’s Bay, a gorgeous beach in Tortola. And, if you are interested in participating as a “WWOOFER” (World Wide Opportunities on Organic Farms), there is an organic farm in Tortola, Good Moon Farm that provides very basic accommodation in exchange for four hours work a day on the Farm.

Interested in scuba diving? There are lots of great spots to visit in the BVI, including the wreck of the Rhone, a British mail steamer that sank in these waters in 1867. If you would like to work on your dive certification while in the BVI, I highly recommend the company, Blue Water Divers.
And, if you aren’t interested in diving, there is still so much to see snorkelling. I have frequently spotted turtles, stingrays, squid, lobster, parrot fish, angelfish… the list goes on and on. Other water sports, such as SUP boards, kite surfing, wind surfing and kayaking, are also popular. If you need a break from the sea, there are a few great hiking trails in the national park, Sage Mountain. And, a recently opened zip line is getting great reviews.

But, the BVI is not just about experiencing the gorgeous water, amazing sailing, and fun water sports. It is also a great party spot! Definitely worth spending a day and evening in Cane Garden Bay to hear some music at Quito’s or Myett’s. And, the Full Moon parties at Trellis Bay are legendary. The well-established BVI Spring Regatta takes place every April, offering some fantastic racing during the day, and great parties in the evening. New festivals that are gaining popularity are the BVI Wine and Food Festival that takes place in the beginning November and the Anegada Lobster Festival that takes place at the end of November. Another hugely popular event is the Poker Run held at the end of May each year.
For a special evening out, dinner at Brandywine Restaurant is a must. And if you are interested in trivia, Friday Night Quiz at the Tamarind Club is good fun with good food; the winning team receives a certificate for Sunday brunch. On Tuesday evenings the restaurant to check out is the small, local place, Dovelove, in the village of Long Look. It is a relaxed, roof top bar/restaurant owned by a BV Islander, Lash, and his Canadian wife, Lynne. A weekly entertainment magazine, Limin’ Times, lists weekly events, music, and restaurant specials happening throughout all the BVI.
A few more important notes:
There are no direct flights from North America to the BVI. To fly into Tortola, you have to take an island hopper (LIAT, Cape Air, Seaborne) from San Juan, which takes about 25 minutes. It is also possible to fly from the USA, Canada, France, and Holland to St Maarten, and island hop from there, taking about 30 minutes. Or, if you are flying from the UK, there are direct flights with British Airways and Virgin Atlantic to Antigua or Barbados, and then island hop from there. If there are more than four people traveling, it might be worth hiring a private plane charter with Fly BVI or Island Birds. Note, the airport code for the BVI is EIS; the airport is actually on Beef Island which is joined by a 100 metre bridge to the East End of Tortola.

Flying into Tortola can be expensive. Sometimes it can be a few hundred dollars cheaper to fly into St Thomas in the US Virgin Islands, and then take a one hour ferry ride to Tortola. The cost of a return ferry ticket, with departure taxes, is $70 and the ferries run every 2-3 hours from 7am to 5pm.
The US dollar is the official currency, ATM machines are available in Road Town, and credit cards are taken in most establishments, although some small establishments will only accept cash.

Driving is on the left, but in American made cars. Passengers can feel very uncomfortable as it feels as though opposing traffic is coming right at them. Street signs are few and far between, and the roads are pothole ridden and narrow, an experience to say the least.
There is so much more I would like to share about the BVI, so stay tuned for part two!!
Thank you so much Sharon, we can’t wait to see more tips from you!